Of all the facets of rose growing the one operation that baffles the rosarian most is the job of pruning the bushes. It is always question time at my home with e-mails arriving from all over the region questioning the "why", "when", and "how" of pruning. Pruning is really not too difficult when certain procedures are followed. Let's take the "chore" reputation out of the equation and replace it with a "pleasure" icon.

As to the "why" the answer is simple. Have you heard of chastising a child to make him or her behave and grow up to be a rule abiding person? So it is with the rose bush. If not pruned, the plant grows wildly and new growth is stymied by the exhausted old. It is true that some blooming will occur but the resultant quality is penalized greatly. It would be ideal if plants grew in symmetrical fashion continuously. Unfortunately, that is not the case. The bush must be "cleaned up" by cutting away spindly, non-productive growth. Cutting the canes does inflict a bit of suffering as with the spanking of a child. But the reward is far greater than the pain, once the healing process culminates into recovery. Sturdy new canes burst into a season of magnificent growth. The old is cut away and new life springs with a magnificent beauty that only the Lord can create.

What about the "when" in the pruning equation? Simply stated, it is when the plant is just about to leave the dormant stage of growth. This stage depends on the geographical location of the rose garden. From the frigid areas of the north to the heated areas of the south, there is a wide variance in pruning time. In fact, in some areas where temperatures remain warm, dormancy is forced so that the bush may experience rest. As far as the temperate Tennessee area is concerned, the pruning operation is best commenced around mid-March. This gives the pruned bush sufficient time to flower around Mother's Day. Then too, rose show exhibitors find this to be prime time for pruning for rose shows. Of course, unexpected fluctuations in temperature can disturb this established schedule. But usually, mid-March is reliable for Tennessee rosarians. Pruning can be accomplished without removing winter protection and it is a good idea not to be too hasty about removing the covering mulch until all frost and freeze danger is passed.

And now to the work in the pruning process. It's the "how" we spoke of at the beginning. This is where rosarians disagree and no standard method has been adopted that satisfies everyone. I am not about to declare that the procedures I use in my garden are "gospel" and that no one should invalidate them. I preach what works for me and hope it works for those persons who send me e-mail questions on the subject.

Before any pruning is done, the rosarian must establish a plan as to how he or she wants the bush to appear when it reaches maturity. Visualize the finished product when blooms are at peak stage. Once this vision is accomplished, it is time to commence pruning. But before actual cutting is started, it is of paramount importance that sterilizing of pruning equipment be performed. Dipping the pruning shears in a Clorox solution as you go from bush to bush is a good way to prevent the spread of disease spores.

Hopefully, all twiggy growth has been removed in the fall, preceding spring cutting. Such prior work reduces the amount of labor to be done in March. On hybrid teas and grandifloras it is important to leave only the strongest canes. Canes of pencil size will produce small blooms. Try to leave the center of the bush open to promote air circulation as the new growth advances to maturity. Then too, spraying is made easier if the bush is open.

In the actual pruning there are diverse theories on how much of the cane to remove. If your goal is large exhibition blooms, the cut should be made 10 to 12 inches in height. If the blooms are for landscape purposes only, then a higher pruning method can be used. Remember: the closer to the sun - the smaller the bloom. When pruning, be sure to use cross-over type pruning shears - not the anvil type. The latter will mash and injure the canes. Make a cut just above the bud eye on the cane, preferably a bud eye that points outward. This will allow the bush to grow away from the center. The cut should be one-quarter inch above the bud eye on a 45-degree angle. Make the slant of the cut to drain water away from the bud eye. However, be sure and not cut into the sap stream of the bud eye. Applying Elmer's Glue (wood type) to the end of the pruned cane will prevent cane borer invasion.

Whereas hybrid teas and grandifloras are pruned with no laterals remaining, florabundas are a different story. Being of the bushy variety with clusters of blooms, this species is largely for landscape purposes. Therefore, it is important that a portion of the lateral canes be left on the bush when pruning is done. Clean up the bush by cutting away non-productive growth and apply a sealer on cut canes as with hybrid teas.

Miniature roses require pruning too. Since these are on their own roots, hardiness is enhanced. Some rosarians use hedge clippers in the initial stage of pruning and then resort to the smaller hand shears to refine the pruning. Remove dead and diseased growth and leave only the healthy stems. Cutting them back severely will not restrict the growth since miniatures are rather vigorous. Of course no sealing is necessary here. In the matter of shrub roses, I use hedge clippers, followed by hand shears to shape them for the new season. Removal of dead and diseased growth is important with shrubs too.

One of the most frequent inquiries I have comes from the rosarian who grows climbers. Mistakes are often made in pruning these, since some growers tend to prune them as they would a hybrid tea. This is a serious mistake. Since most climbers produce their major bloom display on "second year" canes, it is imperative that these not be pruned away. In fact, only minimal pruning is required of a climber. Remove all twiggy, non-productive canes, but on all other canes simply cut back the outward end of the cane to where its dimension is the size of a pencil. Never remove the entire cane if it is healthy. Train it to grow laterally on a trellis and not vertically straight. More blooms will be the result.

One aspect of pruning that is highly important is to be sure and prune canes to the point that the pith (center of the cane) is white. Refrain from attempting to nurse along plants whose cane centers are brown or yellowish in color. Pruning the cane to healthy centers enables the plant to grow with vigor since the sap stream will be healthier. Canes that display no white pith should be removed to the bud union and painted at the cut with a sealer. However, don't make the mistake of allowing the sealer to cover any part of the bud union as this will restrict the formation of valuable basal breaks - the bush's future growth.

Now that the pruning is finished, be sure and clean the area of all growth pruned from the bushes. Send it away in the garbage, as it is not a good idea to include it in the composting operation. It is too likely to contain disease spores that have wintered over and stand ready to attack your new growth.

There are other aspects of pruning but this treatise is an attempt to cover the major points. Prepare your pruning equipment and get ready for a pleasurable period of practical pruning. Spring blooms are not too far away.

Back to Newsletter Archives